32 in Amalfi

We have noticed a pattern in our behavior.  It seems that we like to spend our birthday's in Italy and this year for Jesse's 32nd birthday it was no different.  This time we decided to go on the road less traveled to the Amalfi Coast, which is a beauitiful stretch of coastline on the southwestern side of Italy.  Only after the journey we realized that we took every imaginable mode of transportation, which helps describe how difficult it is to reach this gem on the Italian coast.

We landed in Naples and from there jumped on the bus to Central Station to take the train into Sorrento.  That's where we stayed the first night.  Sorrento is a port town wedged on a ledge between the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea and one of the larger cities on the Amalfi Coast (20K residents).  It was cold and windy on the cape where the water crashed up on the rocks, so we decided to take a little choo choo train tour through the city.  They provided ear phones with Italian opera and commentary breaking down the history of the Amalfi Coast and we learned about the "jet setting" era of the 1950's, when movie stars, opera singers and famous poets used this region, dotted by lemon and olive groves, to escape and relax.  It makes complete sense, as the smaller towns are so difficult to get to... if I was famous, I'd go there too.

Following our one night stay in Sorrento, we hopped on the bus for a deathly drive down the coast line on a road hugging the cliffs dropping off into the sea.  The trip from Sorrento to the heart of the Amalfi coast offers one of the world’s most thrilling rides.  It was incredible and almost all the passengers performed a hale mary around each corner.  The bus driver gained our respect as we nearly hyperventilated at the sheer 500 foot drop to the Mediterranean.

Upon arrival in the small town of Atrani, we took a short walk up the road to check into our apartment. We immediately high fived each other when we walked out on the porch of our apartment to see the stunning views (the sunrise the next morning only confirmed that we “scored”).  But that night we had the best pizza ever at Ristorante E Pizzeria Le Arcate, a restaurant built out of a cave in Atrani.  The carbs would come in useful for our plans the next day…  climbing a staircase of 1700 steps from our apartment to the hilltop town of Ravello.

It took us a little more than an hour to get to the top but we stopped to take breaks to soak up the impressive view. From the village, at about 300 meters above sea level, we took in the twinkling sea, the gulf of Salerno and the Cilento mountains.  There is an ancient legend, still recounted by tour guides in Salerno and Amalfi, that it was to Ravello, with its breathtaking view of the Mediterranean and the dramatic Amalfi coastline, that Satan transported Jesus during His second temptation to show the beauty of the world's kingdoms. (Luke 4: 5-8).

We sat in the sun and had lunch in the main square while resting our legs.  Jesse and I agreed there, that if I could survive the walk back down the hill then we could attempt another hike the next day.

Now, one thing I have not yet explained, is that the whole Amalfi coast peninsula is criss-crossed with an ancient network of walking paths leading over the rocky landscape from one breathtaking vista to the next.  These foot paths have already been in use for many centuries; before cars, these were the lifelines between villages.  They were used to transport goods and send messages but now they are mainly used for farmers, shepherds and pleasure walkers like us.  High above the glistening sea you can see as far as Capri. It’s such an amazing site that in 1997, the Amalfi Coast was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for cultural landscape.

So, the next day was Jesse's birthday and that morning we both woke up feeling great and super excited for our walk.  The day began with a short stroll down to the actual town of Amalfi where we found the best view of the city from the Monastery.  

After some exploring we caught the bus to Agerola, where we found our way to “Sentiero Degli Dei,” which translates to “The Walk of the Gods.”  Given the name, I had some really high expectations, but rounding the first corner to see the view that opened up, I knew this path would live up to its reputation.  

This renowned hike is divine – even heavenly.  The path hangs onto perilous rocky cliffs, and at times we were challenged and needed to rest but the whole way we were awe-inspired.  Overlooking the stunning Bay of Naples with the island of Capri in the distance, the path led us past farmhouses, through a valley floor, between vineyards, olive groves and lemon orchards.  After a few steep cliffs we reached the charming, tucked-away village of Nocelle, which was super cute... but we wanted to make it to the neighboring town of Montepertuso for lunch. 

By the time we found Montepertuso we were starving, and I could smell something cooking.  We wandered down some steps off the main road and found ourselves welcomed by Peppino Barba.  Soon we were sitting high above Positano being hosted by the Barba family at their restaurant called “La Tagliata” (http://www.latagliata.com).  We had a 4 course lunch, family style, complete with wine and limoncello all while taking in sweeping views.  The cooking and hospitality we experienced was so impressive, I would recommend anyone visiting the area to go there, it’s pure Italy! 

After lunch we continued on to Positano.  We passed by cute little houses with elaborate vegetable gardens that could only be reached by foot.  Could you imagine hiking to and from your house to go to work or pick up some milk?  These people must be pretty resilient.

The hike is supposed to take about 3 hours, but it took us all day.  When we reached Positano, we were exhausted, but made our way down to the beach to watch the sun set.  We were mesmerized by the journey we had just finished. Trying to process the accomplishment I had just completed brought tears to my eyes as Jesse told me that it was the best birthday!

Well, most people come to the Amalfi Coast to relax on the beaches, eat fabulous food and stroll down the cobblestone walkways of the most picturesque little towns.  We did all that, plus we did more; literally and symbolically.